a box

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p schmidt
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a box

Post by p schmidt » Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:17 am

here's one I'm working on I'm going to enter this one in a contest (rendering only) I still have more work to do before it's finished!
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Winstone
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wonderful

Post by Winstone » Fri Mar 07, 2008 3:29 pm

Wonderful, I love to see American versions of the guilloche. I hope that my inputs have been of help.

a] Red enamel is a combination of glass and fine gold. I have some transparant red. Thompson enamel sells this enamel.

b] Also if you cut the panels in wax then cast them in fine silver the
lines will come out. You can always recut the lines with your mill. But it must be exact.

c] If in sterling, then you will need to pickle the surface with
either spirex or better dilute nitric acid. ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER! if
you do not, it will explode!!

d] After the alloys in sterling have been etched from the surface, then take a glass brush which is made of a lot of glass rods tied together, can be obtained at Stuller, Gesswein, etc.

e]clean surface by first dipping the etched plate into a solution of barcobanate of soda to neutralize acid,

f]then scrub the surface with the glass brush in the direction of the cuts. set item on side after rinsing wit distilled water to avoid spots.

g]Lastly, apply the Thompson enamel mordant on the surface prior to applying the glass enamel.

h] prior to applying the enamel, it must also be cleaned with distilled water then dried prior to use. You can see from my cane handle those small bits of dust that appear in the flat area which shows that I did not clean my blue transparant enamel enough to get a pure blue surface.

i] be sure to use rubber gloves when doin gthe prep, because skin oil will prevent proper enameling and can cause oxides on fine silver surface.

j] Be sure to drill attachement holes prior to enameling for the center medallion to be attached, use two, so that the medallion will always be
centered as you want. We use this trick. We take the screw that we will use, spray it with PAM cooking spray, place wax on the screw and attach this holder to the wax milled medallion propr to casting. This holder is cast with the medallion in Sterling, then when it must be attached, the nut that results from the casting will be tight, when we set up the medallion and screw together the brass screw with a leather washer to protect the enamel, you could use rubber as well. Leather is more traditional.

k] Gold parts are usually plated and added as frames. Unless the box is made of gold, inwhich case it is usually made in 18 karat plumb gold.

l] If you use sterling silver castings it is wise to leave the back unpolished, and counter enamel that surface prior to preparation for enameling the front. Thompson sells a clear enamel to protect the front. It used to be lead glass, but I do not know if it is still sold. I have Guilloche enamels from France which follow the classic formulas. The red enamel will be more to the orange red shade if 18 karat gold is used, because the yellow of the gold will mix with the red of the fine gold mixed with clear glass. True reds come from enamel on fine silver which provides a truly white neutral reflective surface.

In closing, true Guilloche is a time consuming technique, but truly beautiful when done in the classic manner. winstone

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p schmidt
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box

Post by p schmidt » Fri Apr 04, 2008 1:11 pm

here is a pic of the box being milled ..this is one of the sides being milled the inside of the box has already been milled out.all I have to do is mill the the two end sides to complete you cannot see the detail of the sides in this picture ..will post when completed ..I am using my screw jack for under support and my tail stock for for end support ....I have to rework my tailstock and change it from a "live"center (meaning it will spin) to a "dead" center (meaning it won't spin) then using a system with machinest ball detents to lock it in just enough to stop any spinning movement when milling and still be able to do the rotation when needed it's kind of hard to explain but I will elaborate when I have it finished
I am also using a cutting fluid by "castrol" that has a rust inhibitor in it I got it from my machinest friend I find it's easier than trying to get the mineral oil off the wax now all I have to do is make a dripper
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p schmidt
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box

Post by p schmidt » Fri Apr 04, 2008 2:00 pm

here is the end sides being milled
I used a nut and bolt for the bottom support (bolt has thread tape on it to tighten up the play in the threads) completly adjustable
there is no movement /play in the wax while it is being milled with all these supports
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p schmidt
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box

Post by p schmidt » Fri Apr 04, 2008 4:59 pm

here it is...I know I could have made the outside with more designs to it but this was a rush job for an experiment the next one will be more elaborate all in all it turned out pretty good the bottom has to be sanded smooth as you can see where the taper from the bit cut the edges also I will cut off the core and fill the hole (I know it's not the sqame box as the render that's for later)
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jeff dunnington
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Post by jeff dunnington » Fri Apr 04, 2008 8:21 pm

Very Cool Pat look forward to seeing the finished box.

DPB830
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Great Job

Post by DPB830 » Sat Apr 05, 2008 5:39 pm

That looks Great,Nice job! :D

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p schmidt
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box

Post by p schmidt » Fri Jun 06, 2008 6:00 pm

here's my box so far ..had a blow out ...my fault when I remade the center star I didn't make the base thick enough.. so I'll cut out the center and cut a cabochone stone for the center I still have to add the hinge ,gold plate,possibly enammel, and add the pearls ...the top looks bowed but it's just the photo also some of the sprues haven't been cut down yet
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DSCN2916.jpg
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jeff dunnington
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Post by jeff dunnington » Fri Jun 06, 2008 7:26 pm

looking forward to seeing the finished box!!

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p schmidt
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box

Post by p schmidt » Sat Jun 07, 2008 12:15 pm

moving right along
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DSCN2923.jpg
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p schmidt
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box

Post by p schmidt » Sat Jun 07, 2008 12:16 pm

pg 2
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jeff dunnington
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Post by jeff dunnington » Sat Jun 07, 2008 6:18 pm

looking great so far Pat!!!

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p schmidt
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box

Post by p schmidt » Sun Jun 08, 2008 8:51 am

thanks jeff ...I'm using the new anti ox silver from stuller and was wondering about the gold plating.. I know silver will tarnish under the plating so they usually nickel plate then gold plate I heard you can rhodium and it won't tarnish what do you think about just plating with gold since I'm using the anti ox

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p schmidt
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box

Post by p schmidt » Thu Jun 12, 2008 1:38 pm

here it is ...I had to break out the lapidary equiptment and cut a stone for the center blowout I had ...I used a funny looking blue black stone from australia
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DSCN2930.jpg
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