From Colin's Bench
Moderator: ToddMichael
- Colin Creed
- Senior Miller
- Posts: 819
- Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2004 2:57 am
- Location: Berwick, Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
From Colin's Bench
Hi Everyone,
This is the first milling job that wasn't for another Jeweller, so I've finally got the chance to cast, clean up & take a photo of the finished item.
It's a logo for a local Church group called the Winepress, hence the grapes & W.
They wanted their logo for tie pins, badges, pendants, etc, so this is the master pattern.
The piece is 20mm long x 15mm wide with the back hollowed out.
Finished pieces will have matt texture on grapes with polished W.
Colin
This is the first milling job that wasn't for another Jeweller, so I've finally got the chance to cast, clean up & take a photo of the finished item.
It's a logo for a local Church group called the Winepress, hence the grapes & W.
They wanted their logo for tie pins, badges, pendants, etc, so this is the master pattern.
The piece is 20mm long x 15mm wide with the back hollowed out.
Finished pieces will have matt texture on grapes with polished W.
Colin
- Attachments
-
- Winepress-Master.jpg (35.04 KiB) Viewed 14308 times
- JewelryDoctor
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2004 12:31 pm
- Location: North Wilkesboro NC
- Contact:
Great Job
Neat design. Did you design or was it theirs. Hope to see more of your work.
Happy Milling,
Michael
Happy Milling,
Michael
- jeff dunnington
- Site Admin
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 1:24 pm
- Location: Houston, Tx
- Contact:
- Colin Creed
- Senior Miller
- Posts: 819
- Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2004 2:57 am
- Location: Berwick, Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
Thanks Michael,
It's their design but needed to play around a bit in 3D Engrave to get the desired result.
Check out the 3de. file, if you like.
Note: It's been moved to the 3D Engrave forum.
Colin
It's their design but needed to play around a bit in 3D Engrave to get the desired result.
Check out the 3de. file, if you like.
Note: It's been moved to the 3D Engrave forum.
Colin
- Attachments
-
- This was the design that I had to work from.
- grape-logo.jpg (8.33 KiB) Viewed 14294 times
Last edited by Colin Creed on Mon Oct 04, 2004 2:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
good job
thanks for showing your work
have beem downloading several designs to see how you guys are doing the reliefs etc
have beem downloading several designs to see how you guys are doing the reliefs etc
hustedtjewelers.com
- Colin Creed
- Senior Miller
- Posts: 819
- Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2004 2:57 am
- Location: Berwick, Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
- Colin Creed
- Senior Miller
- Posts: 819
- Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2004 2:57 am
- Location: Berwick, Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
Recent work
Here's two waxes that have been made for other Jewellers.
Pendant of Diana from Greek Mythology.
Milled pendant background, the "Diana" insert was hand carved.
(until I can figure out how to do this on the mill?)
I believe that this is to be cast in 18ctYG
The RAN logo was a straight forward milling job.
This is to be the front/top plate of a hinged locket, to hold photos.
I believe that the locket will be in StgSil.
Pendant of Diana from Greek Mythology.
Milled pendant background, the "Diana" insert was hand carved.
(until I can figure out how to do this on the mill?)
I believe that this is to be cast in 18ctYG
The RAN logo was a straight forward milling job.
This is to be the front/top plate of a hinged locket, to hold photos.
I believe that the locket will be in StgSil.
- Attachments
-
- Front/top plate for hinged photo locket. 28x20 oval
- RAN wax.jpg (13.11 KiB) Viewed 14177 times
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- Oval pendant was milled, then hand carved the rest to fit/suit. 30x22 oval.
- Diana wax.jpg (14.61 KiB) Viewed 14177 times
- JewelryDoctor
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2004 12:31 pm
- Location: North Wilkesboro NC
- Contact:
WOW!
Colin that is awesome. I am very curious about your sculpture work. What type of tools do you use? The detail is incredible. I has always admired people who could do work like that. Did you learn from classes or are you self taught. I really enjoy seeing your work keep on posting when you can.
Michael
Michael
- jeff dunnington
- Site Admin
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Colin
Nice carving. The way you can apply the mill to that kind of work is,
With your sculpting abilities you can carve or model a master in wax or clay then Picza scan it. You would not have to do it to scale because you can make those changes in 3de and also mirror or inverse. I think this would be an incredible tool for you.
The possibilities are limitless
Like to see the finished charm of Diana
Nice carving. The way you can apply the mill to that kind of work is,
With your sculpting abilities you can carve or model a master in wax or clay then Picza scan it. You would not have to do it to scale because you can make those changes in 3de and also mirror or inverse. I think this would be an incredible tool for you.
The possibilities are limitless
Like to see the finished charm of Diana
Wow!
Colin, I am blown away and envious at your carving skills!
You got the skills bro!
Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing with us.
Ken
You got the skills bro!
Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing with us.
Ken
- Colin Creed
- Senior Miller
- Posts: 819
- Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2004 2:57 am
- Location: Berwick, Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
Carving info
Thanks guys, for all the nice compliments.
In Australia there's no formal training in regards to wax carving, so I'm mostly self taught.
I did my apprenticeship at a large factory & learnt hand skills mainly suited to mass production work, but no wax carving.
Members of the Gold & Silversmiths Guild of Australia try to pass on their skills & knowledge to Apprentices, Students & other Jewellers.
As a Guild Member, I've recently been asked to teach classes on the hand carving of wax.
Tools that I use are dental probes, gravers & a wax welder.
I tend to work from a lump & carve away excess wax then build up areas as needed with the wax welder.
I had thought of carving in a larger scale, then scanning the item.
My only concern with that idea was getting rid of the "stepped ribs" that come from milling curved surfaces, would create more work?
At the moment, I'm looking at using the Mill to rough out basic contour shapes that I need for hand carving, to save time.
I'll let you know how I go.
regards Colin
In Australia there's no formal training in regards to wax carving, so I'm mostly self taught.
I did my apprenticeship at a large factory & learnt hand skills mainly suited to mass production work, but no wax carving.
Members of the Gold & Silversmiths Guild of Australia try to pass on their skills & knowledge to Apprentices, Students & other Jewellers.
As a Guild Member, I've recently been asked to teach classes on the hand carving of wax.
Tools that I use are dental probes, gravers & a wax welder.
I tend to work from a lump & carve away excess wax then build up areas as needed with the wax welder.
I had thought of carving in a larger scale, then scanning the item.
My only concern with that idea was getting rid of the "stepped ribs" that come from milling curved surfaces, would create more work?
At the moment, I'm looking at using the Mill to rough out basic contour shapes that I need for hand carving, to save time.
I'll let you know how I go.
regards Colin
- JewelryDoctor
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2004 12:31 pm
- Location: North Wilkesboro NC
- Contact:
Just a comment
Colin, I would love for you to post a poto of your shop. It is always interesting to see where people work and how they set things up. As to the step ribs, have you used a ball endmill. Just a thought. Thanks again for showing us your work. G'day
Michael
Michael
- jeff dunnington
- Site Admin
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- Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 1:24 pm
- Location: Houston, Tx
- Contact:
Colin
I agree with JD. The stepped rib look you are talking about can be near completely eliminated using your ball end mills I sent you.
This picture of a bezel I scanned then milled was done with a .040 ball end with the cutting parameters I supplied. This wax was not touched and you can see how smooth it came out.
Give the scanning & milling a try and let me know how it goes.
I think this would be an incredible tool for you.
I agree with JD. The stepped rib look you are talking about can be near completely eliminated using your ball end mills I sent you.
This picture of a bezel I scanned then milled was done with a .040 ball end with the cutting parameters I supplied. This wax was not touched and you can see how smooth it came out.
Give the scanning & milling a try and let me know how it goes.
I think this would be an incredible tool for you.
- Attachments
-
- fancy-bezel-wax.jpeg (36.45 KiB) Viewed 14138 times
- Colin Creed
- Senior Miller
- Posts: 819
- Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2004 2:57 am
- Location: Berwick, Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
Thanks guys,
Michael, as soon as I can get hold of a digital camera I'll post some photos of my workshop. (originally my garage)
How did I take photos of those waxes, I hear you ask?
I use an old Kodak webcam that's connected to my office computer via USB cable (wont reach to workshop)
Jeff, I've only been using your parameters for all my cutting.
I use the small ballmills for nearly all my milling jobs.
Don't know why, but I still seem to get a fine step on curved areas?
Maybe I'm doing something wrong? Don't know?
Just recently scanned an earring for another Jeweller, so that it could be mirrored & both images milled larger as master patterns.
Design had lots of curved slopes & holes within it. A very organic design.
I used a 0.010" ballmill for finish pass, which left steps within the curves?
I never got a chance to take a photo of the waxes, so I'll redo this job & see if the same results come out.
Will post photos & let you know the results.
regards Colin
Michael, as soon as I can get hold of a digital camera I'll post some photos of my workshop. (originally my garage)
How did I take photos of those waxes, I hear you ask?
I use an old Kodak webcam that's connected to my office computer via USB cable (wont reach to workshop)
Jeff, I've only been using your parameters for all my cutting.
I use the small ballmills for nearly all my milling jobs.
Don't know why, but I still seem to get a fine step on curved areas?
Maybe I'm doing something wrong? Don't know?
Just recently scanned an earring for another Jeweller, so that it could be mirrored & both images milled larger as master patterns.
Design had lots of curved slopes & holes within it. A very organic design.
I used a 0.010" ballmill for finish pass, which left steps within the curves?
I never got a chance to take a photo of the waxes, so I'll redo this job & see if the same results come out.
Will post photos & let you know the results.
regards Colin